<![CDATA[KNU DESIGN, LLC - SCOTT\'S THOUGHTS]]>Thu, 19 Dec 2024 07:02:10 -0500Weebly<![CDATA[Different Drywalls]]>Mon, 04 Dec 2023 23:03:11 GMThttp://knu.design/scotts-thoughts/different-drywallsThey all look the same in the end, so you may be confused why there are so many different types of drywall - or oblivious. Never mind that, there are so many different things to call it: sheetrock, wallboard, gypsum wallboard (or its shorter cousins gypsum board and gyp board, and the Notorious GWB). And sometimes they change “board” to “panel”. Those are all the same thing, and some of the variations on it include:
 
Gypsum rock is mined, crushed, baked, mixed with water to make a slurry, poured out between 2 sheets of paper, dried, cut, then shipped to the jobsite. Thus the nickname sheetrock as it literally is rock spread out on a sheet of paper. It is usually ½” thick for residential jobs and 5/8” thick for commercial jobs (which creates a flatter wall surface and offers more sound and/or fire resistance), but also comes in ¼” and 3/8” thicknesses.
It can be curved – thinner panels bend tighter as shown in this flyer by the Gypsum Association – and wetting it or scoring it allows tighter radii (so sometimes moisture-resistant board is used).
​The narrow ends of the drywall panels are tapered slightly so that when you apply the plaster (“mud” and paper tape to cover the joints, that added thickness ends up approximately flush with the main part of the panel.  Don’t ask me why they don’t taper the long sides, too, but that is a clue as to why the recommended practice is to install the panels horizontally on a wall rather than vertically – the staggered horizontal joints are less visible when you look down along the wall, whereas a continuous tall vertical joint will have a very shallow “speed bump” of plaster every four feet. So drywall walls are not flat but they are much flatter than their predecessor, plaster and lathe.  (Flatness and horizontality aren't the same thing, as if you cared).
 
A few of the major types of drywall include:
  • Regular - this is fine for any dry interior space.  Almost everyone uses screws to install it, but be sure to do so and not use nails to minimize nail pops.  Drywallers are fun to watch - kind of like roofers, they want everything ready for them and then they cook and burn through the job in a flurry. And sometimes leave a mess. 
  • Moisture Resistant (also called green board since that is the color paper they use to distinguish it). It is losing market share to the below better products, as it still crumbles when it gets "wet" as opposed to "moist".
  • Purple board (National Gypsums GoldBond XP, or competitor USG Mold Tough)) is moisture resistant but also mold-resistant, and can withstand direct water contact. This is good for all kitchens and baths but also for exterior soffits and porch ceilings. It is fine for wall tile in dry areas, but for tile in showers and tubs you should use cementitious backer board (see below).
  • Paperless means the paper facings are replaced with fiberglass facings. This is best for avoiding mold and moisture problems. However, the fiberglass has a subtle texture so a level 5 finish is recommended (full skim coating with plaster) for discriminating customers.
  • Fire-Resistant options include Type C and Type X which are used in various combinations to create UL-tested assemblies with ratings that indicate how long it takes a fire to burn through them.
  • Acoustic – a denser panel, often make with a series of panels laminated together by a polymer gel that soaks up sound waves. The screws are an acoustic weak point here, and you should consider using resilient channels first (or also) and using acoustic caulk at the perimeter.
  • Abuse-resistant – has a higher density, and a fiber mesh on the backside to hold things together upon impact. This isn’t really needed in a normal house. Bear in mind this is only the board / panel: the corners are still metal beads (normally) which are not any stronger but still in the most-likely-to-be-impacted location, so adding corner guards would seem like an obvious thing to consider if you need abuse-resistant drywall.
  • Cementitious Backerboard – not actually drywall, but a cement board such as Durock or a fiber/cement panel board Hardiebacker – this is optimal for use anywhere that wall tiles will be applied. Particularly at tile in tubs & showers, we recommend against any drywall product even though the paperless or purple drywall products can be used there. It is an even better practice to trowel on a coating of waterproofing over the cement board in showers. This product cannot really be used in places where it is not covered by tile, because it does not finish smoothly like drywall does.
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<![CDATA[Energy-efficiency incentives by PEPCO for Small Businesses]]>Sun, 24 Sep 2023 15:38:23 GMThttp://knu.design/scotts-thoughts/energy-efficiency-incentives-by-pepco-for-small-businessesEmPower Maryland distributes funds from the MD Energy Administration to customers of multiple electric utilities in Maryland (though low-income customer programs are administered by MD Dept of Housing & Community Development).PEPCO’s programs for small businesses (defined as average monthly demand <100kW) required that the work be performed by either the owner or an approved Service Provider. Any contractor may apply to be approved as a service provider. All applications for incentives must be submitted prior to purchasing the energy-efficient equipment. Combination of rebates exceeding $30,000 within 3 years will require special justification. There are 3 major categories for the application path:
 
1.Existing Building – component replacement
a.Lighting: rebate per fixture replaced, ranging from $7 to $120 \
b.HVAC Units
c.Variable Frequency Drives (pumps, fans, etc.)
d.Misc Equipment - Water Heaters, Washers, Dehumidifiers
e.Electrical Controls
f.Commercial Kitchen Equipment
 
2.New Construction, Addition, and Major Renovation – Prescriptive Path
a.Application instructions and link to lighting worksheet
b.HVAC: pre-approval required based on cut sheets; unitary HVAC systems with incentive <$15,000 gets instant pre-approval. Incentive is up to $225/ton.
c.Lighting: Submission requires a lighting plan, fixture schedule, and labelled cut sheets, and filling out Lighting Fixtures and Controls Workbook. Incentive is 40 to 80 cents/watt saved.
Link to new construction design-based lighting worksheet is on this page
d.Electronic Controls
e.Variable Frequency Drives
f.Commercial cooking equipment, water coolers, and window films:
 
3.Custom Path: Applications such as custom lighting, energy management systems, and industrial systems may submit a Technical Analysis Study Report – the excel file is linked here; more info here.
 
Comprehensive Design support provides technical assistance in analysis of options for Projects are eligible for “comprehensive design support” if they are 50,000 sf or larger or have >150 tons cooling and >75kW lighting load.]]>
<![CDATA[DC Code Check: Residential Life Safety Systems]]>Fri, 19 Aug 2022 04:00:00 GMThttp://knu.design/scotts-thoughts/dc-code-check-residential-life-safety-systemsSingle-family homes, townhouses, and duplexes in Washington, DC are subject to the following codes:
  • 2012 ICC Residential Code (IRC)
  • 2017 DC Construction Code
  • 2017 DC Existing Building Code (if we're talking about a renovation and/or addition)
The three types of life safety systems most likely to be required  are sprinklers, smoke detectors/alarms, and carbon monoxide detectors/alarms (which are often combined with smoke alarms). 
See the 3 flowcharts below to determine whether your project requires each of these. 
If sprinklers are required, their design must follow NFPA 13D or ICC P2904, which are fed from a domestic water system and are much simpler than NFPA 13 or NFPA 13R systems for commercial and low/midrise multifamily buildings, respectively.
FAQ: Alterations under the existing building code are categorized as Level 1 (remove and replace), Level 2 (reconfigure up to 50%) or level 3 (reconfigure over 50%).
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<![CDATA[Code Check: Residential Renovation + Sprinklers in Montgomery County]]>Thu, 16 Sep 2021 14:03:23 GMThttp://knu.design/scotts-thoughts/code-check-residential-renovation-sprinklers-in-montgomery-countyThe International Residential Code requires an automatic sprinkler system in all single-family and two-family dwellings (par R313.2 in IRC 2018). The IRC has an exception: sprinklers are NOT required for additions or alterations to existing buildings that are not already sprinklered.  But...

Montgomery County added their own provision (in Regulation 4-15AMII daed 8/3/2015) adding paragraph R313.4 requiring that sprinklers be installed in existing houses when either:
  • 50% or more of the gross floor area of the existing building is demolished. This excludes basements. The gross floor area in this one and only case is measured to the inside of exterior walls; it includes stairs, interior walls, and everything else inside.
  • 50% or more of the exterior walls are demolished (not including foundation). Oddly unlike the floor area provision, this is measured from corner to corner on the exterior, and includes any part of the wall such as top plate or sheathing.
However, Montgomery County does NOT require sprinklers for additions if the house is not sprinklered - regardless of size (unless, of course, in building that addition you are also doing 50% demolition of either floor area or exterior wall).

For new houses, the county has required sprinklers since 1/14/2004. If by some fluke your house was built after that without sprinklers, you will have to add them when you renovate or expand. Residential sprinklers are designed based on NFPA 13D, which is significantly simpler than NFPA 13R (multifamily) and NFPA 13 (taller multifamily and commercial). 

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<![CDATA[PROGRAMMING: 9 Points to Ponder]]>Tue, 29 Sep 2020 23:53:44 GMThttp://knu.design/scotts-thoughts/september-29th-2020OR, IT TAKES A PERFECT PERSON TO PROPERLY PLAN TO PLAN

​​The impact of great architecture depends on quality construction.
Quality construction requires a detailed, deliberative design.
A deliberative design begins with a perceptive program.
 
What is programming? It is the preparation for a design and construction project, an documentation of your desires and expectations. Sometimes called a Brief, the Program of Requirements - at its simplest – is an outline of your needs. It may be just a list of spaces and their approximate sizes. If you represent a large client, it can be a multi-volume technical document. Both of those examples, however, miss the real juice: an opportunity to chart a path to not only success but to spiritual glory. Well, almost.
 
You may have heard horror stories about projects overrun by monsters that eat the joy out of designing & building, leaving a mess for you to clean up. Those monsters didn’t emerge full force midstream, but were born quietly at the start of the project in one of the areas below. Like a plane crash, it takes several small errors and oversights to fail big. Focusing real effort on the pre-design phase of a project reduces those risks and makes it more likely you will delight in the outcome forever.
 
Following are 9 arenas of thought I recommend you consider as you prepare for your design journey. Different people and different projects will focus on some more than others, and the depth of discovery may vary, but the wider you think and the deeper you dig, the less wandering there will be during design and the happier human you will be.
​1. FUNCTIONAL:
This is where most people start. And immediately stop. This is what you want (or at least what you’ve settled on) – say, a new 3-bedroom 2-bath vacation house with an open-plan kitchen/dining/social space plus garage and a swimming pool. Oh! And a skylight and a fireplace.  That’s fine, we need to know this, but there is so much more. Are you open to innovative ideas that don’t fit into standard definitions? Let’s get more specific on whether those bedrooms are for bunk beds or married adult children, how many people will eat together, let’s talk about what/how we are cooking (Frozen Pizza? Julia Childs?). Elaborate on performance expectations such as the degree of abuse vs. care that is expected, your attitudes about resiliency (surviving or recovering from disasters), are there health issues such as asthma that may drive design choices?
 
What constraints are there? Someone on your team will know building and zoning codes. There may be property or community legal restrictions, utility issues, material availability, or existing conditions such as hazmat or soil issues. For instance, is your electric meter right in the middle of where you want to build an addition? Some may require further investigation and/or testing before launching full design efforts.
 
2. AESTHETIC
The second most likely thing (after making a list of rooms they want) that people do when getting ready to design is to collect pictures. These archetypes are a useful reference point, and even more so if you identify what you are focusing on: was it the material palette or the framing of a view? Consider including some negative archetypes that illustrate what you want to avoid, particularly if there is nuance. Look beyond what you know and identify your first impressions of the great works of architecture throughout history (including more recent famous architects).
 
But remember – design is not shopping: please do not use the imagery to identify the ingredients that we should just shake & bake together and hope for the best. The images and, more importantly, the things you say about them, are parables that give insight into who you are and how we can best express that in a unique building.
 
Aesthetics is not how something looks – it is a branch of philosophy. Without getting too philosophical, think of it as how what you see affects how you think and vice versa. Recent neurological research finds that the impulse from the eye is intermingled with memory before being processed by the brain. Which means that we literally don’t see (quite) the same thing. Which explains a lot? Point being, don’t just pick out pics of what you “like”: think about the meaning of beauty to you, and how you respond to different types of spaces and places. I for one believe beauty to be a positive expression of the essence of a thing, and when there is a disconnect between appearance and the underlying substance, we only have pretty, which is pretty confusing.
 
3. VALUES
As humans strive towards enlightenment, many of us become more aware of our impact. Understanding your core values is critical to the proper design of the spaces you inhabit. This may define an overt and objective goal, such as minimizing carbon output, or may be a subjective attitude that sways design attitudes, such as independence. Design is a multi-disciplinary balance of issues ranging from cost to code, efficiency to expression. It is helpful to outline how important is it to you for the design to be, say, energy efficient, or carbon neutral, or blend into the neighborhood, preserve or create natural habitat, feel safe, be expressive, or any of a hundred other concerns. These are just examples. Think of, and for, yourself.
 
4. EMOTIONAL
This is the part that most people skip. Some of us aren’t introspective, and it can be hard. To create inspiring architecture that stirs you, this is the most important part. Articulate the fundamental why of the project. Although it may seem like something to save for your therapist, let your architect know why that is your why: do you want a simple serene space because you are afraid of losing control due to childhood trauma, or because you aspire to minimalism for religious reasons?
 
Two tactics: Ask why you are undertaking this project, and dig into “why that” 5 levels deep - then back up and ask different why questions at each level.  If you aren’t up for that, then make a list of adjectives that you hope will describe the finished project, and those that won’t. Pick the top and bottom three and explain why.
 
5. CONTEXTUAL
The where of your project can define everything. Engage your architect early – even before you have selected a specific site: we all know Fallingwater, but the client had a different spot on their property in mind until their architect saw the potential. Okay, maybe your site options are less dramatic, but as part of the project planning stage, do a site analysis of environmental and other factors, do due diligence on property restrictions, and refine your views about the relationship between the building, it’s site, and it’s context. Will zoning variances be required, or are there historic or HOA boards who have input on what you do?
 
6. FINANCIAL
Maybe I should have listed this sooner, since it is the other most-likely-to-be-done part of everybody’s program: their budget. Construction is too expensive, and costs notoriously rise as you go along. Your budget should include design fees, permitting fees (sometimes there are several layers to this), construction costs, and also the cost of paying the interest on your loan until the project is complete. Think about furniture and curtains too! Maintain a contingency fund even after you sign a construction contract; define a bigger cushion to early estimates and budgets. Self-control is hard for most people because there are so many really good reasons to spend just a little more. Plan on some of that, or your experience will be too ascetic.
 
Define and communicate where the money is coming from and when. Meet with your lender now to get a handle on what you can afford – it’s never enough, but let’s at least point the team in the right direction. There is the occasional client for whom the budget is all you want to spend; for most it’s all they CAN spend – be clear with your architect what your circumstances are.
 
7. EXECUTIVE
Understand your personal risk / reward behaviors. Define how you are going to get this built. The most common construction delivery methods are:
Design-Bid-Build, the old standby. You choose your architect, design it, you competitively bid it, then you hire your preferred contractor to build it (with your architect typically serving as your representative).
Negotiated Bid: You choose both architect and contractor, design it with price-checks along the way, the contractor bids to their subcontractors only and you negotiate the price, then continue into construction. More and more projects are going this way.
Design/Build: You hire one entity for entire process. Usually, the contractor then hires an architect (or plays architect themselves – that’s worse); sometimes the architect is actually also the contractor (that’s better!). Don’t be fooled by the false security this approach gives you – it still costs what it costs, and I have seen several clients disappointed in the reduced checks & balances (and sometimes reduced design quality) this brings.
Multiple Prime: Owner hires all subcontractors directly, without a general contractor. Not for the faint of heart. You may save money, but if you are skipping work to play contractor, you may lose because you can’t include your time in your tax-deductible mortgage.
The pros and cons are too much to discuss here, but evaluate your options, review them with your team and plan a path best-suited for you.
 
The design process itself can take several tacks. Do you expect just basic services for a “builder’s set” of a rudimentary design with only enough detail to get a permit – leaving you to select all the products and materials? Or will you avail yourself of the full skill set of your architect to develop alternative designs, refine them with care, communicate and confirm them with renderings in virtual reality (not as expensive as you think), provide energy modelling, pursue a green rating program, develop custom detailing for specialized systems or features, design or select the furniture and finishes?  
 
8. SCHEDULE
Create a timeline for design, permitting, bidding, and construction. Depending on the project scope, design could be anywhere from a few weeks to a year, particularly if there is an Entitlement Process. Permit review timeframes vary from same-day to a year; don’t just ask your local permit office because their answers may be misleading. Ask locally-experienced professionals how long it takes. Construction bids take 2-6 weeks, and there are usually a few weeks of contract negotiation prior to construction Notice To Proceed. You can define the construction schedule based on your constraints (which may affect the cost), or ask bidders to present their own schedules. In either case, pencil in some delays, particularly until the construction is out of the ground.
 
9. RELATIONSHIPS
As always, the most important thing! Who will do what as the “Owner” - will one spouse make design decisions and the other make cost/scope/schedule decisions? Who will answer the architect’s call, or the contractor’s? If you have children, find ways to engage them in the process – it’s a great learning opportunity.
 
What professionals will you engage? An architect (who may hire structural, mechanical, electrical, plumbing, and/or civil engineers) and a contractor, maybe also a land surveyor, landscape architect, interior designer, permit expediter, or others for specialized projects. I recommend any professional providing design of any type be hired through your architect, who coordinates the overall design for consistency, rather than setting up competing designers. When selecting your team, you will consider experience, skill, and cost, but I suggest you focus on relationship: having a team that you love to work with makes all the difference.
 
 
ONE MORE THING: Don’t worry too much, have faith; move forward in the face of uncertainty. No one has ever done it all right – and most projects work out fine, despite hurdles. Don’t let programming become an obstacle to progress. When it comes to pre-project planning, more is more, but less can be enough.
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